Two bases carry the plan. Como sits at the tip of the western arm where the train arrives, and Varenna or Bellagio sits on the middle lake where the crossings take minutes. Sleep the first night in Como, the second on the water, and the three days run without doubling back.
Day 1: Como Town, the Funicular and the First Crossing
Trains from Milano Centrale arrive at Como S. Giovanni. Drop the bag, then head for Piazza Alcide De Gasperi 4, where the Brunate funicular leaves from the lakefront. It lifts you 496 m on a 1,084 m track in seven minutes, on a line that reaches a 55 per cent gradient, and the ridge above town puts the first basin below you. The ride back down takes the same seven minutes, needs no booking, and runs every day from 06:00 to midnight.

Come down at midday and use that hour to sort boat tickets instead of sightseeing. The fast boat reaches Tremezzo in 37 minutes and Menaggio in 35, against 1 h 40 and 2 h 15 on the slow boat. On a first afternoon, the fast service buys you an extra hour ashore.
Tremezzo puts you on the west shore beside Villa Carlotta, one of five historic villas on the lake that are open to the public and reachable by boat. From there, the fast boat crosses to Bellagio in 5 minutes, and the car ferry from Cadenabbia takes 10. The evening belongs to the point where the two arms meet.
Stay in Como for the easier morning, or take a late crossing and start Day 2 from Bellagio.
Day 2: Varenna, Two Gardens and Bellagio
The east shore holds the substance of the second day. From Como, the boat to Varenna takes 53 minutes on the fast service or 2 h 20 on the slow boat, at €13.50 one way plus a €5.50 fast-boat supplement and €6.80 for children. From Bellagio the same crossing shrinks to 10 to 15 minutes, which is the argument for sleeping on the middle lake.
Varenna-Esino station sits on the Lecco to Colico line, and Trenord runs a RegioExpress every hour from Milano Centrale through Lecco toward Tirano that stops at the main stations rather than every halt.
Two gardens stand a few minutes apart on the edge of the village. Villa Cipressi opens its terraced gardens from April to September, 9:30 to 19:30, and in October from 10:00 to 18:00, at €13 for adults, €10 for ages 4 to 15 and over 65, and free under 3. The building works as a hotel, which is why the terraces feel borrowed from someone's backyard.

Villa Monastero next door is the longer visit. The ticket is €15 for the house museum and garden, €13 for the garden alone, €9 for ages 15 to 25, and free up to 14. The garden runs almost 2 km along the shore and faces west across the central basin, so allow 1 to 1.5 hours. As of November 2026, it opens 10:00 to 17:00 and both the museum and the garden close on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, with last entry 30 minutes before closing. In October, the day stretches to 18:00, and the museum closes on Tuesdays while the garden stays open.
Cross to Bellagio for Villa Melzi, a neoclassical estate built in the early 19th century for Francesco Melzi d'Eril. The house stays private, and the park is public, with the gate about 5 minutes south of the ferry pier along the lakefront and no booking needed. The park opens from late March to late October and takes 1 to 1.5 hours.
November rewrites that afternoon. Melzi's season ends in late October and Cipressi's listed season ends in October, so a late-autumn visit leaves Villa Monastero as the garden is still open on the middle lake.
Day 3: The Quiet Arm, Nesso and the Road Back
The third day trades the boat for the bus. ASF line C130 runs from Como along the eastern side of the Como arm through Nesso to Bellagio, and C110 runs from Como to Menaggio. Tapping a contactless card on board costs a flat €4.40 to Bellagio and €4.90 to Menaggio at fares set from 1 September 2026. The road shows you the villages from above, at a distance the boats never give you.
Nesso is a stop on C130 rather than a destination with a schedule of its own, so treat it as a place to break the ride and stretch your legs. Cernobbio works the same way on the return: the address that draws people there, Villa d'Este, is a hotel and not a ticket attraction, so you look at it from the waterfront instead of paying to walk through.
Finish in Como with time to spare. Trains to Milano Centrale run roughly every hour, and the last departures leave in the evening, so a long dinner in Como costs you the train rather than the day.